Helpful Hints & Installation Instructions



DISCLAIMER (Read carefully) The following installation suggestions are offered as a courtesy to mail order purchasers and to facilitate accurate ordering of the product. Shade Sails does not and cannot know the specific intentions of purchaser stress factors, variables for the area such as soil, wind condition and exposure, existing structure strength, local access codes, etc. The following is offered only as a highly generalized summary of installation methods used successfully by Shade Sails in the past. Shade Sails makes no extension of warranty by these general guidelines and disclaims any responsibility for the installation, design of installation, engineering requirements, code compliance or any other installation related matter. Shade Sails offers these services on an individual contract basis and purchaser has elected to purchase the ready-made sail only as a more economical alternative.

1) Plan your installation. Check with your local building Dept. Some installations require a building permit. We are not responsible for obtaining permits or for engineering your installation. The following information is meant as a guideline and not intended to replace the services of a structural or civil engineer. Selecting the position: Before you commence installation it is very important that you consider the most suitable location for your shade sail(s) taking into account the following: o Size of the shade sail(s) o Strength of existing structures intended to be anchor points o Ability to insert fixing posts o Location of barbecues or Sun direction etc.

2) Unlike custom made sails that are made to fit, you have to supply supporting hardware that is in line with the corners of the sail and provides enough room to add attaching hardware or rope. It is best to make the structural element's foot print one foot larger than the sail's dimension so that variations in the sail's size is not a problem and there is enough space to add rope, links of chain, turnbuckle, shackles etc. To help you visualize the Sails, you can also use string stretched between your planned attachment points. Remember the sails do not have straight lines at the edges; they are constructed with a gentle curve that deflects about 10% over the length of each edge. We have found the best looking installations have bold changes in height from one corner to the next, and that overlapping sails or multiple sails give a more interesting look.

3) The attachment points should be installed first. Therefore, install your posts with eye-nuts, and to the house, tree or whatever you have chosen to support them, add eyebolts, pad-eyes or straps. Remember, there can be substantial wind loads. (From 5.5 to 15 lb. Per square foot of sail). These loads are divided between the corners, but it is important that what they attach to be adequate. For the posts, we usually use 4" schedule 40 steel pipe (galvanized) or temporary power poles (treated) that are 6" or larger. Posts can be powder coated or painted to help protect them and provide the desired color. Steel pipe is usually found at a steel supply or pipe supply vendor. If timber posts are used, then generally use temporary power poles with a preservative added to the wood. They are usually embedded in a concrete footing, 3 ft. to 6 ft. deep and 1 ft. to 1.5 ft. in diameter. (Generally a third of the total length of steel or wood is buried so a 10' high post should have about 5' in the ground). Plumb or slightly lean back the post and support it until the concrete has dried. If the posts are tall or more than one sail is attached then larger posts are usually called for. Install Eye nuts with threaded rod through the posts with the eyes pointed at the center of the sail. Corners of buildings are excellent attachment points and we have designed a special corner clip for that application. Attaching to Fascia is generally a bad idea unless the fascia can be reinforced or tied in adequately to the rafters. Often a pad-eye can be lag bolted to headers that are above windows and doors or to the top plate at the top of the wall. Also, it is often possible to connect to remote structures with wire cable spanning the distance. However, cables should only be used a one corner or excesive moevement will occur.

4) The sails have a stainless steel ring at each corner that must be attached to your fixing point. This can be done in a variety of ways; the best method for the "do it yourselfer" is to tie them on with a length of low stretch Dacron rope. This gives a lot of adjustability and is very strong and inexpensive. For a more high tech look you can use stainless steel "D" shackles and turnbuckles or even chain. 5) Pre-tension the sails to about 100lb by tightening the rope or turnbuckle(s).

Care of the sails: Sails can be hosed in place or taken down and gently scrubbed with a mild detergent.

Do not leave sails up in snow prone locations during winter months and unless your installation has been engineered for permanent use they should be taken down when windy conditions exist.